| Along the way… |
The Cordillera Real is like a string of summits where “6000” meters peaks are strung like beads; A 150 km barrier between Sorata and La Paz that separate the desolate expanse of the Altiplano and Lake Titicaca from the Amazon Basin which receives runoff water from snowmelt.
Over 8 years of experience in this area gives us the opportunity to offer you today this unique itinerary: in seldom visited areas of this mountain range (mountaineers having climbed in this area can be counted on the fingers of one hand!), far from human presence, the most secret confines of the Cordillera are yours.
We start by a moderate acclimatization trek at Lake Titicaca. We then head for the Condoriri range and its interesting summit after which the range was named: the central summit looks like a condor’s head and the two adjacent summits like its two folded wings. There, we do our first three warm-up ascents (between 5400 and 5700 meters above sea level).
We then begin our self-sustained crossing of the Cordillera on foot, which will take us first to Chachacomani (el. 6050 m.a.s.l.) and then to Illampu (el. 6380 m.a.s.l.), highlight of our adventure.
For experienced alpinists in good physical condition thirsty for unspoiled ground and open space. An unforgettable experience.
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| PROGRAM |
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Day 1: LA PAZ - ARRIVAL |
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Airport pick up (flight number and arrival time to be confirmed) and transfer to the hotel. Rest of the day open.
Lunch and dinner open. Hotel ***.
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Day 2: LA PAZ / PHOTO AND PANORAMIC TOUR – VALLEY OF THE MOON |
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Departure from the hotel at 8:30 a.m. in our private vehicle, to discover the most spectacular viewpoint over the city, unbelievably located in the “pit” of the Choqueyapu river canyon, with the Royal Mountain Range “Giants” as the background: Huayna Potosi, Mururata and Illimani.
This tour, particularly designed for photo lovers, first takes us to the K´Illi K´Illi Mirador and to the Laykakota Park, on the Northwestern side of the city. Afterwards, we cross the Americas Bridge to go to the “Plaza de España” Mirador, in the colonial neighborhood of Sopocachi. From there, an abrupt descent takes us to the “South Zone”, passing through Llojeta and the “Garden Cemetery”, and finally to the Valley of the Moon, a place where we will be able to walk between psychedelic looking sandstone formations.
Return downtown in the afternoon.
Lunch and dinner open. Hotel ***.
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Day 3: LA PAZ – COPACABANA – TREK ISLA DEL SOL - YUMANI |
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Departure from the hotel at 7:30 a.m. with a private 4WD. We skirt Lake Titicaca and the Cordillera Real before descending towards Copacabana (around 3h30). From there a motorboat takes us to the Northern extremity of the Isla del Sol (island of the Sun), a 3-hour trip.
From the ruins, we start the trek following the crest of the island until we reach the village of Yumani in the South (a 3 to 4-hour hike).
Cold lunch. All included. Night at Maria and Ismaël’s house (Basic comfort).
Note: During the following 2 days a boat will be at our disposal to transport the group as well as the gear during the walks.
Hiking time: 4h; Elevation gain: +200m / -100m
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Day 4: YUMANI – YAMPUPATA – TREK – COPACABANA |
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In the morning we descend the 500 steps to the pier of the Fuente del Inca (Fountain of the Inca), where our boat awaits us to take us to the peninsula of Yampupata (20 minutes). Trek along the peninsula to the Virgin of Lourdes, by way of the remote village of Zampaya (about 4 to 5-hour hike). We then get back on our boat for the return to Copacabana.
Visit of the most interesting sites of the town : Horca del Inca, cathedral…
We climb the Way of the Cross for the sunset (don’t forget to bring your headlamp for the descent).
Cold lunch (included). Dinner open. Hotel ** / Lake view.
Hiking time: 4h; Elevation gain: +100m / -200m
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Day 5: COPACABANA – LAGUNA TUNI – LAGUNA WICHUKHOTA (el. 4680 m.a.s.l.) |
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Difficulty: Daily 4 to 7-hour walk. Good physical condition required
At 10 a.m., we depart in our private vehicle (3-hour trip) for the start of our trek, the village of Tuni
We slowly climb from the community of Tuni to the Lagunas Suri Kota and Wichu Kota. We set up camp in between the two lagoons.
Cold lunch. All included. Bivouac.
Ascent time: 3 h; Elevation gain: +200m
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Day 6: LAGUNA WICHU KHOTA - LAGUNA CHIARKHOTA (el. 4670 m.a.s.l.) |
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We leave Huayna Potosí and María Lloco behind and drive along the steep hillsides leading to the Tillipata pass (el. 5000 m.a.s.l.), from where the view of the myriads of lagunas down below makes our efforts all worth it. Descent to the beautiful narrow valley of Jistaña, before ascending to the Jallayko Pass (el. 5025 m.a.s.l.) at the foot of the Black Needle. The base camp for the ascents of Condoriri at the laguna Chiarkhota is now very close.
Cold lunch. All included. Bivouac
Hiking time: 7h; Elevation gain: +635m / -645m
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Day 7: ASCENT OF EL PEQUEÑO ALPAMAYO (el. 5410 m.a.s.l.) |
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Grade III/AD+, Max 55° - with mountain guide
Start at 5 a.m. to attempt the summit (normal route / 4-5 hours) and then descend to Laguna Chiar Kota.
Cold lunch. All included. Bivouac.
Ascent time: 7h; Elevation gain: +740m / -740m
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Day 8: ASCENT OF CONDORIRI (el. 5700 m.a.s.l.)
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Grade III/AD+, Max 55° - with mountain guide
Start at 4 a.m. Summit attempt by normal route (5-6 hours) then descent to Laguna Chiar Kota.
Cold lunch. All included. Bivouac.
Ascent time: 8h; Elevation gain: +1030m / -1030m
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Day 9: LAGUNA CHIARKHOTA – PICO AUSTRIA - LAGUNA CONGELADA – LAGUNA JURIKHOTA (el. 4700 m.a.s.l.) |
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Departure in the morning for the Austria Pass (el. 5160 m.a.s.l.). A little detour will take us to the peak of the same name (el. 5350 m.a.s.l.), from where we can see La Paz and lake Titicaca.
We then descend towards the laguna Congelada (where two glaciers meet in its freezing water), jewel nested at an elevation of 4900 meters above sea level, at the foot of the left wing of El Condoriri. Then we descend to laguna Juri Khota, where we set up camp.
Cold lunch. All included. Bivouac.
Hiking: 6h; Elevation gain: +490m / -460m
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Day 10: LAGUNA JURIKHOTA - LAGUNA SISTAÑA – LAGUNA PALCOCO (el. 4650 m.a.s.l.) |
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We clear our first pass (Janchallani, 4910 m.a.s.l.) in the morning to reach Laguna Sistaña (el. 4700 m.a.s.l.). We then circumnavigate the Wawanaki mountain range before slowly descending to the laguna Palcoco. We set up camp near the abandoned barracks of the ancient mine.
Cold lunch. All included. Bivouac.
Hiking time: 6h; Elevation gain: +260m / -310m
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Day 11: LAGUNA PALCOCO – QALA UTA SHELTER (el. 4450 m.a.s.l.) |
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Today we have to cross the Cordillera, there is no way around it. We do it by the remote pass of Chiqapa (el. 5100 m.a.s.l.), from where we descend to Qala Uta (stone house, in Aymara). The community, in cooperation with the PRAIA foundation, built there a beautiful shelter. A successful project of community ecotourism.
Cold lunch. All included. Night in the shelter.
Hiking time: 7h; Elevation gain: +450m / -850m
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Day 12: QALA UTA SHELTER – MINA FABULOSA - HUIYNARA (el. 4550 m.a.s.l.) |
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We depart in the direction of mina Fabulosa. We start the long journey across the hillsides that will take us to our camp in the evening, located across the Ankhohoyo glacier (“White Enclosure”). We spend the night at the base of Jankho Laya, in a place called Huiynara.
Cold lunch. All included. Bivouac.
Hiking time: 6h; Elevation gain: +300m / -200m
Note: Supplies in fresh products. Option to evacuate potential sick trekker.
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Day 13: HUIYNARA – PASO HUARACO – LAGUNA LECHE (4900 m.a.s.l.) |
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We leave the dirt road of Hankolakaya and clear the Huaraco Pass (el. 4775 m.a.s.l.), before descending towards Laguna Cotapata (“the high laguna”, el. 4685 m.a.s.l.). We turn to the South in the direction of Laguna Leche, owing its name “glacial milk” to its emerald color.
Cold lunch. All included. Bivouac.
Hiking time: 6h; Elevation gain: +570m / -220m
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Day 14: ASCENT OF CHACHACOMANI (el. 6050 m.a.s.l.)
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Grade III/AD+, Max 55° - with mountain guides
Equipment check. Start at around 1 a.m. Summit attempt, then descent to base camp
Cold lunch. All included. Bivouac.
Note: Chachacomani was climbed for the first time in 1947, by Dr. Federico Fritz’s expedition. Like a lot of little known summits in the Cordillera, its exact altitude is not yet known.
Ascent time: 12h; Elevation gain: +1150m / -1150m
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Day 15: LAGUNA LECHE – NEGRUNI (el. 4700 m.a.s.l.) |
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We hike along the hillsides of the Tres Marías mountain range towards the North, to reach the Chiquini Valley that we follow to our camp. This could be the wildest and the prettiest part of the Cordillera. Our camp is nicely tucked between the Negruni and the Chajowara mountain range. The glaciers surrounding us have, unfortunately, diminished a lot during the last 50 years… And in the last 10 years their recession had been even more noticeable!
Cold lunch. All included. Bivouac.
Hiking time: 6h; Elevation gain: +720m / -920m
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Day 16: NEGRUNI – CHAJOLPAYA (el. 4090 m.a.s.l.) |
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We follow the slopes of the Chearoko and Calzada mountain range. After clearing Negruni Pass (4930 m.a.s.l./ snowed in 9 months out of 12), our trail slowly descends towards the hamlet of Chajolpaya. We set up our camp in this beautiful open valley, near the river, where we notice numerous holes dug in the grass: they are used to hydrate the “kaya”. The tubercles of Oca (close cousin of the potato) are immersed in these pools for 30 to 40 days, until the first frost of the year (June 24). Then they are simply spread out on hay where they are left to dehydrate and become kayas. It is the most nutritious and the most common aliment of the Cordillera.
Similar method to produce the tunta, made from a white potato, stomped on as it is dehydrating.
Cold lunch. All included. Bivouac.
Hiking time: 5h; Elevation gain: +230/ -840m
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Day 17: CHAJOLPAYA – PASO SARANI - COCOYO (el. 3540 m.a.s.l.) |
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We leave the “medieval” village of Chajolpaya behind and head up to the Sarani pass (el.4520 m.a.s.l.) before descending towards the village of Cocoyo, which owes its growth to the tin mine of Candelaria, still exploited. We set up camp a ways from the village
Cold lunch. All included. Bivouac.
Hiking time: 6h; Elevation gain: +430/ -970m
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Day 18: COCOYO – KHORVASINI PASS- ESTANCIA UTJAÑA PAMPA (el. 3900 m.a.s.l.) |
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We clear the Khorvasini pass in the morning (el. 4475 m.a.s.l.) and descend towards the estancia Utjaña Pampa (el. 3900 m.a.s.l.).
Cold lunch. All included. Bivouac.
Hiking time: 6h; Elevation gain: +925m / -625m
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Day 19: ESTANCIA UTJAÑA PAMPA – AGUAS CALIENTES (el. 4200 m.a.s.l.) |
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We ascend to the Illampu base camp, called “Aguas Calientes” (4h – el. 4200 m.a.s.l.). But don’t let this name fool you: there is no hot spring in the area
Cold lunch. All included. Bivouac (camp II of the Illampu ascent by the normal route).
Hiking time: 4h; Elevation gain: +300m
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Day 20: ASCENT OF ILLAMPU / DAY 1 (el.5600 m.a.s.l.)
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Grade III+ /D, Max 65º - with mountain guide.
We hike towards the glacier and traverse it on the right; 7 to 8-hour hike before reaching the high camp, at 5600 meters of altitude, just under peak Schulze and from where we can see the Northwest face of Illampu.
Note: Porter team for the 2 days of the ascent.
Cold lunch. All included. Bivouac.
Ascent time: 7h; Elevation gain: +1400m
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Day 21 : ASCENT OF ILLAMPU / DAY 2 (el.6380 m.a.s.l.) |
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Early start for the summit attempt. From the high camp, the normal route follows the West arête. To access it, climb over the 300-meter wall of snow and ice. Before reaching the apex, climb over a steep ice face (65 º) and summit after 4 to 6 hours of climbing. Descent in the afternoon all the way to Aguas Calientes.
Cold lunch. All included. Bivouac.
Ascent time: 10h; Elevation gain: +1000m / -2200m
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Day 22: AGUAS CALIENTES – ANCOMA – SORATA – LA PAZ |
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We walk down to Ancoma where a vehicle awaits us to bring us back to Sorata and then to La Paz (6 to 7-hour trip). Evening open.
Cold lunch included. Dinner open. Hotel ***.
Hiking time: 2h; Elevation gain: -350m
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Day 23 : LA PAZ |
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Day open. Lunch and dinner open. Hotel ***.
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Day 24 : DEPARTURE |
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Pick up at our hotel in a private vehicle, 3 hours prior to flight departure time, for transfer to airport / international flight number and time to be confirmed.
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